Monthly Archives: September 2012

Pipe power

weekend in review

Well, hello there. It’s been a wee while hasn’t it? But here we are again for our ‘almost-Daily Dose’. It’s been a busy weekend. The beach was pumping in more ways than one. As you’ll see from the Pipe pic above, there was plenty of south swell running into the Town beach on Saturday. Meanwhile up the coast, the Coast beaches were all firing as well. The surf was real clean first thing with a fresh nor-wester grooming the swell nicely. The sea breeze hit by the afternoon so those surfers with any energy left bailed offshore to the Island for some clean ones over there.

Gissy Boardriders kicked off the 2012 competition season with a one-day comp at Creeks, Makorori on Saturday. Numbers were down a bit, but the competition was still pretty tough. The pumping surf resulted in a mean rip sweeping you north as you paddled out. Some of the old boys found their fitness grossly lacking so there were some empty spaces out the back …and on the score sheet. Ooops, gotta get one’s fitness back in a hurry. In comparison the kids were not only fighting fit but were also ripping in the surf. The girls were highly competitive – a few young fellas had their egos dented in the mixed heats, with the girls coming out on top. Womens liberation and domination.    Ô

Creeks barrel

pumping surf on the Coast

competition site

surf comp season kicks off


nice peaks at ‘Creeks’ Makorori for the comp


the young girls were ripping


grommets + fire = danger

fish fins

something fishy about this








south swell set

south swell rising

Plenty of happy surfers today as the south swell continues to rise. The day began with light offshores and clean surf. It stayed like that for the good part of the day until the winds got a bit funny in the afternoon. The Pipe was a bit slow on the high tide first thing but got better as the tide dropped later in the morning. By lunchtime it was peeling like a banana and just a small crew of 4 or 5 guys were out enjoying the clear springtime weather and clean swell. The sets were a little inconsistent though.

By evening the wind had turned southerly but the Pipe was still holding it’s shape and the swell had really started to pulse, with multiple sets coming in at times. A big after-work crew were out hunting the good ones. Some nice runners was still coming through, despite the onshore …if you were lucky enough to find them. Tomorrow looks like the surfs going to be messy with strengthening southerlies predicted. Good news is that the swell will hang in there and if anything, will build even more leading into the weekend – when the winds are looking to be offshore. Happy days     Ô

Foam ball

Kani riding the foam ball


stalling for the barrel

backhand barrel

backhand ‘pigdog’ barrel


going for a floater

sooty clouds

southerly front coming through

tree screen TV

the Nature channel







Wainui view

Monday funday

Today the wind had turned sou-west before dawn, then southerly later on. The surf had deteriorated by first light with the unfavourable winds but that didn’t stop the adventurous from having a dabble in the surf today. Yesterday however, was a different story – a sneaky wee north-east swell combined with a building sou-west pulse to produce some fun peaky little runners at Wainui.

The surf had been so small first thing that surfing wasn’t on my agenda for the day …not until Frick texted me through a tip-off < 2 ft swell stock route >.  Cellphones have certainly changed the nature of ‘the chase’. It turned out that the small combo swell was a bit of fun for those who caught it. Having left my dash a bit late, Frick kindly offered me the plastic-fantastic lying on his lawn. So I managed to slip out for a couple of quick ones, after I’d shot a few frames for your Daily Dose. Frick also obliged me further by interrupting his curry cooking lessons with Mrs Breckell to put on his outside lights so that I didn’t have to change in the dark. Ahhh, that’s what mates are for…   Ô

Schools peaks

peaky combo-swell

hanging5 at Stockies

hanging5 across the Stockies bar


shortboard torque


discussing that last ride


satisfied having had their daily dose












Cosmic reflection

goodbye south swell

The day dawned to reveal clean two-foot waves but alas, the south swell was dropping fast. It was big enough to ride on a shortboard in the morning, but by afternoon a malibu or small wave fish type craft was required. There was just tiny dribblers at both the Coast and Town beaches by the evening. Tomorrow it’s likely to be flat. The daily size of the surf seems on average to be reducing greatly with the onset of springtime. The frequency of swells also seems to be on the decline.

The internet is always producing fascinating little bits and pieces on every topic imagineable. The cartoon styled graphic (below) that I swiped off the web makes you query what sort of surfer you are. It got me thinking about myself – being a surfer of the photographic persuasion, am I spending way too much time on the wrong end of the camera lens and not enough time in the water? …Hmmm, I might need to address that situation now that winter and its short days are behind us. The days are now longer than the nights, as we’ve just passed the equinox hump. Even those strong winds have eased back the last few days, despite the predictions. And it also means that summer is on it’s way. Goodbye winter, see you next year.    Ô

surfer types

…so which one are you?


Pipe rights

the surf got real small by evening

Wainui overview

the swell also dropped right away at the Coast

Wainui dribbles

tiny Wainui dribbles

tree silhouette

bonzai styles





lots of options

You may have noticed that I don’t usually do a Daily Dose post on a Thusday night, even if the surfs pumping, as that’s our Boy’s night out and it’s usually too much of a rush …and at my age I definitely need my beauty sleep! And the surf WAS pumping this Thursday with a fresh south swell that was offering options at all the local beaches. The swell was still a little raw. The very chilly early morning nor-wester tried to clean it up, but the wind then swung sou-west, then southerly later on.

Friday was definitely the day of the week as the swell settled overnight and had only eased a wee bit. Plenty of options with the south swell angle. The Town Beach was firing up, as well as all the Coast. There were barrels for the taking at all beaches with a brisk early morning offshore blowing. In the afternoon the wind went nor-east, so the hungry crowd was congregating at The Pipe. Pipe regular Abi D was out for her third surf of the day before the sun started setting. (Handy when your workmate wants to switch shifts and the surf’s pumping). A few extra pics in today’s post as the surf was good.

Tomorrow should start off nice again with the swell hanging in there and fresh nor-westers in the morning, possibly swinging more northerly in the afternoon. Looking a bit small for your Sunday surf though and rain’s predicted, so you may need to mow the lawns after the Saturday surf.   Ô

sun up

sunny but chilly start to the day

orange glow Wainui

Wainui first light

barrel off the wall

barrels off the wall

early Pipe

hunting early morning at the Pipe

Abi's lunchtime surf

Abi’s lunchtime surf

sunset tree

filtered springtime light

Steve & Gary

Steve & Gary, watching the evening crowd







wet sand

winter returns

Brrrrhh, it’s cold out there! There is definitely snow out there on the hills! We had a day’s high of a mere 9 degrees here in Gisborne today. Don’t put those winter woolies away just yet. I don’t usually do a Tuesday post for the Daily Dose, despite the blog’s name, but it’s so cold that I’ve bunkered down for the night in front of the heatpump, huddled over the laptop and getting lots done online.

The surf came up overnight. The sou-west swell was solid this morning with wild four foot sets at the Town and Coast beaches. Nobody was put trying their luck in the surf – well, not first thing anyway. Today was definitely the kind of day when a fully-featured stitched/glued/taped 4 or 5-mil wetsuit is mandatory. The wind remained sou-west all day. The afternoon and evening rain just added to the day’s gloom. I’ve given some of today’s pics the sepia look, as is befitting of such a miserable day. Looks like the weather and swell will both settle tomorrow, but Friday is looking like the surf day. Fingers crossed….       Ô

man's best friend

man’s best friend

stormy weather

snow-bearing clouds lurking over the coast


morning path

Summer t-shirt

it’s 4 degrees -> read his t-shirt !

project crimson

Pohutukawa being planted amongst the Pines





tracksuit walker

there’s swell coming

After several day’s of unusual flatness at local beaches the forecast finally looked promising today with a sou-west change predicted, along with a sou-west wind swell to break our surf drought. This morning dawned with clean little half-to-one footers at the Town and Coast beaches. Passing the Town beach several times today, I peered over the dunes at lunchtime and again in the evening to see if the swell had arrived. Not really.

Unfortunately the size didn’t increase much at all during the day, but the quality certainly decreased as the sou-wester kicked in around lunchtime. The ‘white horses’ were heading across the bay as the surf became very messy. The temp dropped too. There’s snow as well as swell heading our way. It was snowing in Dunedin today which means it’s gonna get pretty chilly for us too. But a trade off for getting some swell. Tomorrow the surf is guaranteed to be bigger …and colder. Rug up folks!     Ô


a fast gallop as the ‘white horses’ start to develop

morning surf

clean morning peeler

lunchtime surf

getting messy by lunchtime

fire cloud

earth, wind & fire

SW front

sou-west front coming through